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Close to the Volcanic crater

Iceland Volcano Hike 2021

Iceland is known as the land of ice and fire, and volcanic eruptions are a common thing here. The volcano eruptions in Iceland are usually so big that it is impossible to hike close to them. Everyone remembers the 2010 eruption on Eyjafjallajökull that grounded thousands of flights and stranded hundreds of thousands of people worldwide. The funny thing about that eruption in 2010 was that here in Reykjavík, we didn’t really think too much about it. It was so far away, around 2 hours drive from the capital, and weather conditions blew the ash to the south towards the UK and over across Europe. To the inhabitants of Reykjavik, it just wasn’t a huge problem.

Lately though here in Reykjavík things have been getting a little different. To start with, back at the end of 2020 we felt a large earthquake. It was the largest we’d felt for many years and this turned out to be the very beginning of a new era of seismic activity. In the beginning of February 2021 we felt another large Earthquake, then another and another and another. There were in fact around 50.000 earthquakes within a few weeks, and our geological scientists predicted an eruption on the Reykjanes peninsula, around 30km from Reykjavík. Everyone was getting little nervous about what could happen.

It’s worth knowing that there hasn’t been any volcanic activity on the Reykjanes peninsula, where 80% of Iceland’s population lives, for almost 800 years. A volcanic eruption here could have serious consequences for the inhabitants and infrastructure in and around the capital area. 

On March 19th 2021 in the valley called Geldingadalur beneath Mount Fagradalsfjall the lava broke the surface and things became real. At around 9pm a passerby called into the emergency services saying there was an orange glow in the sky. Within the hour helicopters were on the scene giving us the first images of a volcano only 40km (25 miles) from Reykjavík.

On a pitch black night on March 20th we set off in search of adventure. The volcano hike in Iceland 2021.

Many people have since then been to the area to witness this extraordinary sight for themselves. The first arriving just 3 hours later, and although all roads leading in the direction of the volcano are all closed to the public, the area itself is not, meaning you can go there if you are prepared for a long walk.

On a pitch black night at 9pm on March 20th we set off in search of adventure. We had prepared well, full backpacks with extra clothing, drinks and food, and since we were hiking in the dark torches and lots of batteries.

We followed the advice of the police and started our hike from the Blue Lagoon. We parked our car just by the mountain Sýlingafell and started walking along a trail heading in the direction of Fagradalsfjall. As we set off I was thinking that this should be a pretty easy hike. I’ve always kept in good shape, hiking glaciers and nearby mountains, so I wasn’t too worried about it at all. Little did I know that I was starting off on one the most difficult hikes of my life.

We soon realised that this trail we were following was not going to take us to our desired location and after a quick double check of the map, it turned out that there wasn’t any trail that would take us there. In the distance we could see the lights of other hikers and an enormous orange glow in the sky to the east and so we decided to follow the other hikers and head straight towards the glow of the volcano. This meant we would have to cut across an ancient lava field. We thought it wouldn’t take us too long since we were taking the shortest possible route. We were wrong.

To walk over an ancient lava field is incredibly difficult. These lava fields are big, real big and are made up of huge boulders and sharp rocks covered in a thick spongey moss. To make it even more dangerous the lava fields are littered with holes and cracks hidden by the moss, meaning it is very easy to snag your foot and fall, twist an ankle or break a bone. Add to this the complete darkness with only headlights for illumination and it’s a recipe for disaster. We trod carefully though watching our each and every step, climbing through jagged lava boulders and sinking in the thick moss for almost 2 hours before we were free from the lava, in front of us some distance away we could see the hills at Fagradalsfjall. It looked steep.

We were lucky enough to stumble across a rough track after the lava field and it seemed like luxury to walk on something that was at least a little bit flat and even, but the track didn’t last long and only took us to the steep hills at Fagradalsfjall.
We started up the hill, but pretty soon it got incredibly steep. With no daylight it was impossible to judge distance or gradient, half way up I felt like I couldn’t go on, let alone hike all the way to the volcano and then back to the car get home. Towards the top we were scrambling and slipping on a 45° slope with loose stone beneath our feet. Sometimes I was on all fours crawling up the hill. As I stopped to catch my breath we met a group hiking back and they told us to carry on, only another 30 minutes of hiking, one more lava field after we got to the summit and we’d be there. “It’s worth it!” they said.

At the top of Fagradalfjall around 20 minutes later the whole sky turned orange. Even though we couldn’t see the volcano, the orange illumination was so bright we could turn off our lights. I was wet through in my own sweat, thirsty and tired yet amazed at the same time. Then we saw the orange smoke of the eruption.  Five minutes after that we saw what looked like orange fireworks flying upwards, and five minutes later, after over two hours of rough hiking in the dark, we were there!

The volcano is situated in the bottom of a valley called Geldingadalur, which means the view you get from just about anywhere is magnificent. I truly had never seen anything like it, and as we watched from the hillside the crater was throwing up massive clumps of lava into the sky. Beyond the main crater were other smaller fissures churning out lava that turned into rivers that were 100s of metres long. As we sat there on the hillside taking in the view, my sweat soaked clothes started to cool and with the cold wind howling I started to shiver.
Fortunately we had mother nature’s heat source at our disposal, so we ventured down the valley to the red hot lava.

We sat as close to the lava as we dared and as we sat there taking in the indescribable scenes that were unfolding before our eyes, I started to warm quickly. There was in fact, such intense heat that being too close to the lava was not possible. 

The only way I can describe it is like being sat next to the biggest bonfire you could imagine. It was actually quite cozy. We drank tea, ate snacks and took pictures. In the distance close to the main crater which was spewing out tons of lava we saw a group of people. We decided to try to get a little closer.

The pictures and videos below will say more than I ever could about being so close to this portal to the center of the earth. I have no words that can describe the scene properly.

Being up close to the crater was an unforgettable experience, but a risky one. At any time the cone of the crater could collapse, which would result in lava flowing out in huge volumes in all directions. We did in fact see one small collapse, which shocked us and the crowd standing with us. Fortunately nothing bad happened.

The lava flowed fast out of the main crater, oozing it’s way down into the valley forming huge rivers of fast flowing magma. They say that this is a very small eruption, but when you are there standing next to the crater, and look down on the masses of lava below it certainly doesn’t feel that way. It seems as though everything around you is alight with the glow of lava. Magnificent.

There was also a great atmosphere with the crowd there. Everyone was in awe. Some were having fun, cooking hot dogs and toasting bread on the lava, or lighting their cigarettes and laying on the soft grass of the hillside. There was even someone camping there in a tent. Every person there had made the same effort we had to reach the volcano, and there were many people. There was what I can describe as somewhat of a festival atmosphere. 

After we had seen as much as we could of the volcano and with the time being just a little after 2am we started to head back. This was the part I was dreading. In the back of my mind I was wondering if I was strong enough to hike back down the hills, to make it safely through the lava fields. To add to this we now had a strong wind to walk into. I was worried I would cramp up, trip and fall. My legs were starting to turn to jelly, and on the way back we had no orange glow to guide us, just a jet black sky. I was utterly and completely exhausted at half way back, but we kept on, only stopping for a few seconds to check our direction and always staring at the small patch of ground that our headlights illuminated before our feet. 

Finally after 2 hours hiking on worn out legs we found the track that would lead us to our vehicle.
In total we hiked for almost 5 hours through some of the roughest terrain that Iceland has to offer. I can only compare the physical exertion to a marathon, but the reward you get for doing it is a once in a lifetime glimpse at the power and force of mother nature.

The day after this was written the police advice was not to start from the blue lagoon

Many people the following morning got lost or got hurt in the lava fields, mostly on their return from the volcano. Many were just not prepared enough for such a hike, setting off with inappropriate clothing, without food and drink and no torches in case it got dark. The rescue teams were busy all day and night assisting people. 

There is now a new track marked with yellow sticks to stop people getting lost, and the approach is from the south west just past Grindavík. It is said that this route should take around 3 hours in total, but should only be attempted when weather conditions are favorable. The gasses from the volcano can kill a person quickly. 

Should you dear reader ever make it to Iceland this year, you may indeed still have a chance to see this natural wonder. At the time of writing it is thought that this eruption could last months, even years. The magma that is making it’s way to the surface is a primitive kind, that comes directly from the mantle of the earth and from deep underground, around 17 – 20km. 
Should you make it here to our little volcanic island, and if the volcano at Geldingadalur is still active please be careful. It is always best to go with a guide who knows the area.

Map showing a track marked with sticks, and the approach is from the south west just past Grindvík.

BE AWARE

If you plan to walk to the eruption site, there are many things you should be aware of:

  • First of all, this is a walk lasting many hours and the weather in Iceland can change rapidly.
  • The volcanic eruption releases toxins and gas can form in depressions. Always keep the wind in your back.
  • A new eruption crack can form anywhere and at anytime.

Be prepared:

  • Wear hiking boots, warm and waterproof clothing.
  • Assume that the trip may take longer than planned.
  • Bring a packed lunch and water to drink.
  • Look after your travel companions. Fatigue and hypothermia come quickly.
  • Stick to ridges. Avoid valleys and depressions in the landscape.
  • Have a positioning device.

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